Makgeolli: The Sweat and Tears of the Joseon Commoner
Saecham (새참) - Kim Heung-do (김흥도) [1]
A portrayal of saecham, or ‘sayicham,’ which refers to the meals often enjoyed in between the traditional three meals. Here, Kim Heung-do portrays a scene from the everyday life of a Joseon commoner: working the fields accompanied by light snacks and makgeolli. [2]
About Makgeolli
Makgeolli, despite its widespread popularity in modern society both East and West, has a “murky” origin story. Sources regarding makgeolli’s history or preparation process are largely lacking, and much of the evidence we have today regarding the validation of makgeolli’s presence in Korean culture is found in historical records and popular forms of literature such as Samguk-Sagi and Chunhyang-jeon. In Saumguk-Sagi. In both texts, a white, murky alcoholic drink is described to have been consumed and enjoyed by commoners, as the low alcohol content of said beverage was a source that enhanced performance in the fields, as opposed to being a hindrance. [3]
History and Characteristics of Makgeolli Brewing
While indeed limited, there are references to Korean traditional alcohol that allow us to infer possible explanations behind the mystery that is makgeolli.
The Goryeo dynasty is widely considered the “revolutionary” era for Korean liquor, and it is believed that the current day recipes for makgeolli, yakju, and soju were experimented upon and completed during this time period. Historical records like the “Goryeo dogeyong” and “Dongguk Isangguk Jib” refer to makgeolli as “murky” and “white” (one of the earliest direct mentioning of makgeolli). Following the Goryeo dynasty, the Joseon dynasty opened a Renaissance period for traditional Korean liquor. Major changes in the recipes for brewing alcohol were made, one of which being the replacement of non-glutinous rice with glutinous rice as the main material for brewing, ultimately increasing the quality of the beverages. Despite such notable “booms” in the brewing culture, then, why are records regarding makgeolli so scarce?
During the Joseon dynasty, every household began to develop their own, unique style of brewing, and as people began to experiment more and more, there was a plethora of diverse and distinctive techniques that were developed. As a result, more than 340 unique types and styles of liquor were recorded in literature during the Joseon dynasty, different styles representing different households and regions of Joseon. [4]
Furthermore, makgeolli was largely a drink of the commoners; mostly farmers, those who brewed and consumed makgeolli likely did not have the ability nor the leisure to record the exact process of producing liquor. It is believed that the methods of brewing were passed down generations through tacit knowledge, as people within the families and neighborhood were likely all brewing alcohol together, sharing ingredients and methods.
Cook Books: Gyuhapchongseo and Eumshikdimibang
Two of the more renown Korean recipe books are Gyuhapchongseo and Eumshikdimibang. Gyuhapchongseo was written and compiled by Binghurgak Yi around 1809, and is considered the first cookbook for women. Eumshikdimibang was written and compiled by Lady Jang Gye-Hyang around 1670, and is considered by many the first recipe book written in vernacular Korean.
Both cook books were authored by noble women to be used within their respective families. While this suggests the roles women played in developing and nurturing Korean culinary culture were quite consequential, it also indicates the limitations; while it was certainly possible for women to author such works, it was with the intention to educate the women of the family the necessary wisdom a woman of the family must know. In a sense, it was a guide to be a dutiful, Confucian woman. [5]
However, the effects these works had are undeniable. The experimentation and personal input, inquiries, anecdotes, etc. that were all included in these works contribute greatly to uncovering the lifestyles, beliefs, and practices of a Joseon artisan.
Takju: Makgeolli & Kwahaju
Makgeolli is part of the takju family of alcohol, which refers to the murky, white appearance of the alcohol, added to the appropriate thick texture of the liquid. Another beverage within the takju category of alcohol is ‘kwahaju’ (과하주), a drink that is meant to be enjoyed after summer, as the name’s literal translation is “post-summer alcohol.” The takju category of alcohol is also known to have low alcohol content.
Due to the limited resources regarding the exact methods of makgeolli brewing, I have selected kwahaju as a subject for comparison. While the two liquor are considered to be within the same family and has very similar brewing methods, makgeolli was known as the drink of the commoners while kwahaju was likely a more costly drink, or at least relevant enough to the nobles to be recorded in cookbooks such as Gyuhapchongseo and Eumshikdimibang.
Ingredients and Preparation
Non-glutinous and glutinous rice (used for makgeolli and kwahaju respectively).
4.5 cups (non-glutinous rice and glutinous rice)
Nuruk
~240 grams (makgeolli)
~150 grams (kwahaju)
Water
~2.0 liters for makgeolli
~0.75 liters for kwahaju
Soju (kwahaju)
~2.0 liters
Cheesecloth + Steamer + Pot (kwahaju)
2+ hours of steaming
Electric Steamer (makgeolli)
~2 hours of steaming
Fermentation jar
Makgeolli Recipe
Wash non-glutinous rice in water before steaming.
4.5 cups
Leave nuruk in water before mixing with the steamed rice.
240 grams of nuruk & 2.0 liters of water
Add the mixture of nuruk, water, and steamed rice to fermentation jar.
Drink in fourteen days. [2]
Recipe Interpretation: Kwahaju from Eumshikdimibang
Two ‘toe’ (되) of nuruk is boiled in water and left to cool for a night
1 ‘toe’ = 0.48 kg.
The next day, get rid of the deposit that accumulated overnight and use only the water.
Wash one ‘mal’ of glutinous rice and steam.
1 ‘mal’ = 18.04 liters.
Wait for steamed rice to cool, then mix with the aforementioned nuruk. Let the mixture sit and ferment.
In three days, add ten ‘bokja’ of soju to give the drink its sweet flavor.
1 ‘bokja’ = 1 liter.
Drink in seven days. [6]
Brewing Process: Makgeolli
1. I first washed the non-glutinous rice and steamed using the electric steamer.
2. While allowing the steamed rice to cool, I mixed ~240 grams of nuruk in ~2.0 liters of water.
3. I sanitized the fermentation jar by placing it above boiling water. I let it sit until the bottom of the jar became hot before drying and allowing the jar to cool.
4. I added the cooled, steamed rice and the nuruk + water mixture to the jar. I used the utensil shown to mix the contents, careful not to “break” the rice.
Finally, I closed the jar and allowed it to ferment for fourteen days.
Brewing Process: Kwahaju
1. I mixed ~150 grams of nuruk with ~0.75 liters of boiled water. I then left the mixture to sit overnight.
2. The next day, I washed ~4.5 cups of glutinous rice and placed said rice in a pot with the steamer and cheesecloth I had at hand.
3. When steaming, waited until the pot-cover showed hints of perspiration to lower the temperature, and once that was done, I allowed the rice to steam for 40 minutes. Then, I allowed the rice to rest for 20 minutes (tteum-deuligi/뜸들이기) before removing the rice to cool.
The steaming process took several attempts to reach a satisfactory level of steamed rice.
4. After rice had cooled, I removed the prepared nuruk from the water it was soaked in, and mixed the steamed glutinous rice with the nuruk-less water.
I thoroughly, but carefully, mixed the rice and water with the utensil shown before adding the mixture to the disinfected jar.
I then closed the jar and fermented for three days.
5. After three days of initial fermentation, I added ~2.0 liters of soju to the prepared mixture.
I then allowed the alcohol to further ferment for another seven days.
Difficulties/Shortcomings, Final Products, and Closing Thoughts
The most notable difficulty that arose in both processes of production was the steaming of glutinous and non-glutinous rice. I carried out the production of makgeolli first, as the material I had at hand was limited and makgeolli brewing was a process that took slightly longer than that of kwahaju. At the time, I had yet to acquire a stainless steel steamer, so I chose to utilize an electric rice cooker with a steam option. This took longer than I had expected, as the amount of rice needed required two separate processes of steaming. Even then, the steamer required multiple trials to produce the wanted results. This process took approximately two hours to complete.
When dealing with glutinous rice, I utilized the steel steamer I acquired, but experienced a trial of failure in actually burning the rice. So, the ultimate production process of kwahaju was extended. On a later trial, I was able to produce steamed glutinous rice, but the process had actually taken longer than the trial with an electric steamer, a total steaming period of around two to three hours. I believe the process may have been smoother if I had a larger pot at my disposal.
Another concern I had during the brewing process was the measurements. As noted above, the measurements noted above were for a much larger amount of alcohol. However, because I did not have large enough fermentation jars, I was forced to downsize; I took the amount of rice needed, 5.4 kg, and divided all measurements by that number. This allowed me to fit all the ingredients for fermentation in the 1 gallon jars I had to utilize.
I opened both jars on April 25th, 2022, the fifteenth day of fermentation for makgeolli and the tenth day of fermentation for kwahaju. The makgeolli was much darker in color and carried a much pungent scent when compared to the kwahaju. Next, I compared the makgeolli to both the kwahaju and a modern, processed makgeolli and found it slightly similar to the processed makgeolli. I believe the home-brewed makgeolli was a bit more bland when compared to the kwahaju or the processed makgeolli. It also had a slight sour flavor, which may suggest a flawed brewing process. I suspect there may have been a slight miscalculation in the rice to nuruk proportions. As for the kwahaju, there was a stronger “punch,” which I suggest was due to the soju added when fermenting. The color, however, was lighter than the yellow I had expected, so I may have needed to wait a couple more days (or weeks) before opening.
Overall, while my palate may not be developed to the point of relevancy, I detected a similar “thread” in all three alcohol I tasted. The beverage that stuck out the most was undeniably the modern, processed makgeolli, but that was likely due to the milk that was utilized in its production. However, I was able to taste similar “rice-like” characteristics in all three liquor, with the strength of the scents being the biggest differing factor.
Considering Makgeolli: Past and Present
While Korean history and culture has garnered much love in recent years, it was not too long ago that such exposure was difficult to imagine. During the Japanese colonial period, which lasted close to half a decade of the 20th century, much of Joseon’s identity was stripped away; many restrictions were put on traditional practices that were embedded in the everyday lives of the Joseon people, one of such traditions being individual brewing of alcohol. A liquor tax was passed in 1916 that restricted home-brewed liquors, abolished the tradition of the ‘jumak’ (a “hut” for food and drinks), and simplified the type of produced liquor to makgeolli, yaksu, soju, and Japanese sake. As a result, by 1934, much of “legal” independent brewing practices were no more, along with the merging of different breweries, as such changes allowed for convenience in taxation.
Unfortunately, even after liberation and the Korean War that followed soon after, the government continued to follow similar liquor restriction practices. To make matters worse, rice in liquor production was banned in 1965, leading to the substitution of rice with imported wheat flour. Such changes not only resulted in diminished quality and taste, but also further censured a part of Korean identity.
It wasn’t until the mid-2000s that curiosity regarding Korean history and culture, both domestic and worldwide, also branched out into the field of alcohol production. Such attention and interest resulted in a gradual resurgence in the passion for traditional Korean alcohol brewing. [7]
However, can we truly say the traditional methods and approach of Korean brewing has been revived? I do not believe this to be the case, as the makgeolli market, historically belonging to the commoners of the Korean peninsula, is now dominated by large, corporation-level breweries. One of such breweries is Pocheon Ildong Makgeolli (1932포천일동막걸리), a brewery located in Pocheon as the name suggests. Their company introduction page claims their unique and deep flavor is credited to the traditional methods of brewing and the quality of the water in the region. While makgeolli brewing as the people of Joseon have practiced may not have survived the tumultuous periods of colonialism and war, the methods Pocheon Ildong Makgeolli claims to practice suggests that not all is lost; the reliance on traditional methods of brewing takju and the utilization of exclusive material found in different regions of Korea can be traced back to the renaissance of Korean brewing, the Joseon dynasty. [8]
What makgeolli was like during the Goryeo or Joseon dynasties are forgotten and unknown. However, the culture of fluid experimentation and development through tacit knowledge remains to this day, as makgeolli was never meant to be produced following a specific guide. It’s within the soil of the Korean peninsula where the soul of our ancestor’s lifestyles and practices remain, and such sincerity can still be detected in today's makgeolli.
Works Cited
[1] Kim, Heung-do. “Saecham.” Munhwa Cheyuk JangkwanBu Kuklip Jungang Bakmulkwan, https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/relic/recommend/view?relicRecommendId=16847. Accessed 6 May 2022.
[2] “[Choi Seok-Jo Seonsaengnim-ui Yet Geurim Sanchaek ] Kim Heung-do ui “Saecham'.” Eou Rin Yi Joseon Ilbo, http://kid.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/01/27/2010012701387.html.
[3] “Samguk Sidae Yijun Buteo Jeulgin Sul… ‘Makgeolli Bitgi’ Munhyung Munhwajae Dwaetda.” Hankyung.com, 15 June 2021, https://www.hankyung.com/society/article/202106159080Y.
[4] Sang-ho, Ro. “Cookbooks and Female Writers in Late Chosŏn Korea.” Seoul Journal of Korean Studies, vol. 29, no. 1, 2016, pp. 133–157., https://doi.org/10.1353/seo.2016.0000.
[5] Park, Kun-Young, et al. Korean Functional Foods: Composition, Processing and Health Benefits. PRODUCTIVITY Press, 2018.
[6] Ssi, Andong Chang, et al. Ŭmsik Timibang: Kyugon Siŭibang. Kungjung Ŭmsik Yŏn'guwŏn, 2000.
[7] Kang, Mun Suk. “Keuttae Keuttae Dallayeo, Makgeolli Jaeryo-ui Byunhwa.” Saewol-ui HeunJeok, Keundae Munhwa Yeoksa Yoosan <Jiyeok N Munhwa Taema, https://ncms.nculture.org/legacy/story/2892.
[8] “1932 Pocheon Ildong Makgeolli Sogae.” 1932PocheonIldongMakgeolli, http://xn--369ay3l35ejd457e5hhnxn.kr/niabbs5/inc.php?inc=sub1.